Alchemical Herbalism
A revival of botanical wisdom
Hello Everyone!
Welcome to the first edition of Nunotes’ newsletter, where we explore the most exciting trends shaping the fragrance industry and beyond. Each month we’ll highlight a unique theme, providing insights and inspiration from various fields.
In this opening issue, we invite you to discover Alchemical Herbalism.
First, a bit of context:
The global herbal medicines market, valued at $146.6 billion in 2023 and projected to reach $248.6 billion by 2030 (MarketWatch, 2024), reflects a growing interest in natural remedies and holistic health. "Alchemical Herbalism", draws from historical and modern influences, blending herbalism with a taste for folklore and magic. The fascination with combining science, mysticism, and philosophy dates back to ancient times when cultures sought to understand and manipulate the natural world through symbolic and practical means. This intrigue has endured through the centuries and recently resurged among consumers seeking to add magic and wonder to everyday life. The success of movies like "Poor Things" by Lanthimos, which grossed over $100M worldwide, highlights this fascination, especially among Millennials and Gen Z. Aesthetically, the Frankensteinesque fable has sparked renewed interest in steampunk-inspired elements, merging Victorian and contemporary styles with theatrical settings, as seen in the Maison Margiela Artisanal '24 and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy SS25.
In beauty, Gen Z's interest in ancient rituals like Ayurvedic beauty and practices such as hair oiling and gua sha reflects a desire to disconnect from technology and embrace mindfulness (Cosmetics Business, 2024). Google searches in the UK for Ayurvedic beauty surged by 213% throughout 2023, indicating a growing mainstream interest in these rituals. Similarly, ‘mystical jewellery’ trends in China, driven by astrology and esoteric beliefs, highlight a consumer quest for comfort in tradition amid uncertainty (Jing Daily, 2024).
"At Bvlgari, we occasionally host in-store animations for selected groups of customers. Depending on the focus, we invite figures like numerologists, astrologers, and similar experts to conduct personalised sittings with each client and match them with a specific stone. These events are held in many of our stores worldwide and are very successful, as clients feel not only entertained but also pampered by such a personal and intimate experience.”
Costanza Poser, CRM Marketing Specialist at Bvlgari
Social media, including TikTok, amplifies these trends, fostering community and knowledge sharing around herbalism and spiritual practices. The hashtag #herbalism, for instance, has been used over 163K times on TikTok, showcasing a wide range of herbal applications and products, further propelling the trend into the mainstream.
In this context, Alchemical Herbalism has emerged, blending science, mysticism, and cultural nostalgia, offering more than mere viral aesthetics or simple health remedies. This trend speaks to a deeper desire to escape everyday life and forge a deeper connection with the natural world, making it a powerful and enduring movement to watch for in today's culture.
How is Alchemical Herbalism influencing the world of scents?
Embracing this trend, botanical fragrances have gained added significance, evolving into prodigious elixirs. Often characterised by mind-soothing or mood-elevating profiles, these perfumes mirror old apothecaries in their packaging design, while marketing strategies emphasise botanical knowledge, weaving a narrative that combines herbalism with a touch of folklore. As of 2023, the global Herbal Fragrance Ingredients market significantly contributed to this evolution, expected to reach USD 31.7713 billion by 2033 (FMI, 2023).
BOTANICAL ELIXIRS
Since 2021, the number of fragrance launches carrying the word ‘spiritual’ has increased by 58% (Mintel, 2023). This year, the trend for fragrances with soul-healing and mind-soothing properties seems to be evolving with a herbalist twist, offering blends that exude a magical and mysterious vibe.
Polish brand Bohoboco presented its newest perfume, Magic Mushrooms, at Esxence. Created by Michał Gilbert Lach, the fragrance reflects his connection to magic and spirituality. Magic Mushrooms features top notes of cypress, grapefruit, and cardamom; heart notes of magic mushroom accord, blackcurrant, herbs, davana, ylang-ylang, and cannabis; and base notes of liqueur, patchouli, vetiver, and moss
Potions and Remedies by Penhaligon’s is a new collection from the British heritage brand, reviving formulas envisioned by founder William Penhaligon. In the late 1800s, he used plant power in a secret lab beneath his barber shop to treat customers' ailments. The collection includes scents like A Balm of Calm, with notes of bergamot, jasmine, cardamom, lavender, and clary sage, and Eau de Audacity, featuring orange blossom, vanilla, and incense.
In 2022, Roos&Roos (France) launched Les Simples, inspired by medieval gardens of therapeutic aromatic plants cultivated by monks. The collection started with three herb-inspired perfumes, including Bel Absinthe with chamomile, wormwood, dreamwood, white musks, patchouli, and cetalox. In 2023, they introduced Angelica Florae, blending angelica, star anise, jasmine, and patchouli. Angelica oil, known as the “herb of angels”, is famed for stress relief, anxiety reduction, and historical associations with warding off evil spirits.
Other examples include: Cosmoss’ Sacred Mist, Björk and Berries’ Botanist, Flora Danica Parfums, Senteur Lab’s Puritea collection
APOTHECARY-INSPIRED PACKAGING & RETAIL SPACES
Inspired by the timeless charm of old apothecaries and reflecting the ongoing Dark Academia aesthetic in fashion - highlighted by cyclical surges in Pinterest Searches, especially among Gen Z - packaging designs and retail spaces are embracing the essence of a bygone era. This trend harmonises botanical elements with intriguing objects, creating a fusion that resonates with contemporary tastes.
One example of this synergy is British brand Abel Burners & Apothecary which crafts handmade aromatherapy diffusers in Cornwall, featuring a distinctive design reminiscent of antique laboratory equipment.
Another British company embracing this theme is Perfumer H, which collaborated with the iconic stationery brand Choosing Keeping to introduce a collection of scented desk items aptly named Scented Objects for The Desk. This range includes a journal, ink, pencils, incense, and two candles, all infused with the signature Paper scent, featuring notes of turpentine oil, papyrus wood, herbs, spices, dark cedar, cade wood, and rose oil.
Thai brand Panpuri's sensory boutique in Bangkok embodies a modern take on this trend with its interior design. The luminous setting draws inspiration from apothecaries, featuring glass bottles and ampoules set against wooden structures with a clean, contemporary design, and accented with curious white objects on display shelves.
New brand Bluepearl, based in Bali, also embraces this aesthetics with its essential oils bottled using botanical-inspired caps that echo their essences, crafted by local artisans.
Other examples include: Astier de Villatte, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Winter Herbarium advent calendar (2023)
PROMOTING BOTANICAL KNOWLEDGE
Several companies are choosing to elevate their communication strategies by blending culture with scent, crafting narratives that transcend conventional marketing to highlight often undisclosed aspects of the creation process. This trend is growing across the industry, with a rising number of brands actively committing to promoting botanical knowledge through collaborations with institutions or by providing educational content on their platforms. Fragrance companies are positioning themselves as advocates for botanical wisdom, contributing to a broader cultural dialogue.
New research shows plants communicate through scent. Lingua Planta, founded by Merle Bergers in the Netherlands, explores this with eco-friendly perfumes made from natural essential oils. Their 'Scents of the Earth' subscription box includes a vial of scent, a related object, and a video from Bergers, enhancing customers' understanding of botanical essences and fostering a deeper connection to nature.
CPL Aromas partnered with Clive Christian Perfume to sponsor this year’s RHS Botanical Art & Photography exhibit at Saatchi Gallery, London. The exhibition showcased premier botanical artwork and garden photography by global artists. Clive Christian featured six fragrances enhanced with CPL’s "AromaFusion" and "AromaSpace" technologies, which recreate natural scents beyond traditional methods.
French candle house Carrière Frères collaborated with the Paris Museum of Natural History to promote biodiversity. This resulted in a unique collection of three candles inspired by the Jardin des Plantes in Paris and the museum’s archives of plant drawings. The candles feature scents of absinthe, waterlily, and acacia. One for all, the Absinthe candle, honours the plant’s medicinal history, despite its notorious distilled version being banned.
Parterre (UK) stands out by growing its botanicals in-house at the Botanical Collection, a hub for perfume plants. This centre nurtures rare ingredients for up to 7 years, focusing on unique plants like Shiso and oils with challenging extraction processes like Iris and Rose. The brand shares detailed information about its plants on its website, offering enthusiasts a deeper understanding of its craftsmanship.
Other examples include: Louis Vuitton’s “A Perfume Atlas”, Palm of Feronia’s “Learn” section
PRO TIPS
Season-proof your scents:
Reflecting a broader industry shift towards sustainability and conscious consumer choices, fragrances with a trans-seasonal appeal are gaining traction. Incorporate notes that resonate year-round into your product range, drawing inspiration from apothecary-inspired herbal accords and unconventional garden finds. Showcase the versatility of your existing creations through a new marketing campaign or re-launch, highlighting their suitability for every season.
Boost your compositions:
With wellness confirming itself as a central theme for the years ahead, make sure to infuse your products with ingredients rich in beneficial properties and aromatherapy-inspired accords. Enhance your range with fragrances designed to evoke emotions and promote well-being. When drawing inspiration from ancient practices such as traditional herbal remedies, consulting with experts in these fields ensures a respectful and authentic integration.
Engage your community:
Organise workshops, pop-up events, masterclasses, or fragrance discovery sessions to connect directly with your customers and create memorable experiences. Collaborate with botanical gardens, museums, or cultural institutions to offer educational content and immersive opportunities. Ensure these events go beyond the social media-worthy, providing substantial, hands-on activities that educate and inspire. When collaborating with the media, select partners who can enhance your brand's narrative and contribute genuine value.
Educate and inspire:
Today's consumers are more informed and curious than ever. Engage them through thoughtful posts, compelling social media updates, and enriching video content. Quality over quantity is key - avoid lazy marketing and PR tactics that might work for big corporations but don’t create value. Instead, find ways to share meaningfully your brand's story. Use these narratives not just to inform but to ignite inspiration, fostering a genuine connection between your audience, your brand, and the natural world.
For further exploration:
"The fine line between pharmacy and perfumery. Natural, animal, and unusual materials" by Annick Le Guérer; Doctor from Paris V University, anthropologist and philosopher, and member of the Scientific Committee of the Osmothèque (Paris. April, 2024)
Key topic: Exploring the historical relationship between pleasantly scented ingredients and compounds, and their recognised medical efficacy.
*The conference was held in French but automatic subtitles in many languages can be activated.
"Aromatherapy: The Science of Essential Oils" by P. K. Shukla, A. K. Srivastav, D. Chopra, S. Agnihotry, P. Misra, J. Singh (2024)
Key topic: The book offers a thorough exploration of essential oils in aromatherapy, including their history, biochemistry, therapeutic uses, pharmacology, toxicology, and regulations. Written by experts, it provides deep insights into their molecular mechanisms and future therapeutic potential.
Google searches for Six Flowers oil perfume benefits have recently surged by over 300%, notably in African countries such as Ghana and Nigeria. This ancient oil is traditionally crafted to attract good fortune, favour, and protection from evil forces.
“Why Modern Day Witchcraft is on the Rise” (A. Bonet, 2023)
Key topic: Bonet explores the rising popularity of modern witchcraft in Britain, driven by social media and commercial interest in crystals and spell kits. Practitioners share how magic and rituals help them navigate life, aligning with feminist and environmental values for spiritual fulfillment and empowerment in a chaotic world.
“Gen-Z beauty incubator Slate Brands introduces fragrance-focused Modern Magic” (T. Pile, 2024)
Key topic: Slate Brands, the US-based beauty incubator that collaborates with influencers and creators to create brands for Gen Z, recently launched its newest fragrance company, Modern Magic. Their marketing strategy for this new brand reminded me of another piece about how modern TV series are redefining the modern-day witch.
Jo Malone “Scented Mementos” limited collection campaign (2024)
Key topic: The collection draws inspiration from the quirky and magical atmosphere of British flea markets and antique shops, which is amplified by surrealistic elements in the campaign.
Our favourite content creators’ picks:
Deborah Garcia Baez
Deborah was our first guest on Scentsational Minds at @nunotes, and we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to feature her in our debut newsletter. At Nunotes, we deeply value her meticulous yet profoundly poetic approach to describing fragrances and her genuine commitment to crafting meaningful content about perfumery. Her "3 scents" series, where she explores specific botanical notes, beautifully showcases her passion and expertise, making her perspective invaluable for this edition. Deborah has selected three fragrances she loves that perfectly embody the theme we're exploring. We're excited for you to discover them!
“The theme of the botanical (or alchemical) world applied to the creation of ancient elixirs and potions has always fascinated me greatly. This is why my selection will move away from the classic concept of Perfume (as we are used to perceiving it now) in favour of specific references to lotions and old remedies that involve precise ‘healing forces’.”
VINAIGRE
Let's start with the first: Vinaigre by Diptyque. A lotion, a tonic, a purifier of body and mind... Vinaigre, born in the Diptyque maison in 1975, harks back to the ancient customs of the 19th century, when gentlemen and ladies used the so-called "toilet vinegar" for personal hygiene and to refresh the body from the summer heat.
Diptyque offers this multi-use elixir enriched with notes of woods, orange peel, fresh spices, and infusions of aromatic herbs. A lotion that, in 2024, still holds all the charm of an irresistible provocation and makes us fall in love with this beauty vinegar.
P.S. The brand suggests a capful of Vinaigre for a warm bath and two sprays in boiling water to purify the air.
ALCHERMES
Its crimson colour already makes us dream... The imagery of a blood-red liquid spell is unlocked!
The first fan of Alchermes? Catherine de' Medici, who brought this ancient recipe, originally created by Dominican friars in 1743 in Florence, to the court of France. Fra’ Cosimo Bucelli, director of the Santa Maria Novella pharmacy, created a price list for it around 1859 due to the high demand, as it was considered an elixir of long life and/or a soothing agent for children. Yes, because what was actually a liqueur was used, in southern Italy, to combat "fear worms", nightmares, and fears in children. The drink is sweet, made of spices and red fruits, and in "Alchermes" by De Gabor, it transforms into an intense Eau de Parfum with an abundant amount of saffron that blends perfectly with Davana and fruity, sugary notes. In the base, a volcanic oud gives an irresistible sillage.
THE BOTANIST
In "The Botanist" by Min New York, we return to a green and botanical, somewhat witchy dimension! Citrus peel intertwines with super green and sappy notes: the sensation is that of a secret potion, created with natural herbs, in the shade of conifers and camphorated cypresses. The vetiver in the base maintains the vegetal constant, still offering minerality and a smoky accent: it brings to mind a crackling magical potion!
Lastly, if you liked this theme, you might want to check these out:
@sowvitalplantcare: The company sells fertilisers and garden tools, but its communication is top-notch. Besides being aesthetically curated, they also share interesting facts, tips, and inspirations about the botanical world.
Kindred Black: An environmentally focused artisan brand offering natural, plastic-free skincare, cosmetics, and botanical perfumes, paired with unexpected finds for the vanity, bedside, and home, all rooted in a historically focused collection.
Mystical Mushrooms: Discover the Magic & Folklore of Fantastic Fungi (A. Kane, 2023): this book explores the fascinating world of mushrooms, from ancient origins to modern significance. It covers their cultural symbolism, economic impact, and potential future uses, emphasising their mystical allure and ecological importance. It invites readers to marvel at mushrooms as both natural wonders and sources of inspiration in human history and innovation.
Alexa de la Cruz Jewelry and Fragrance Studio: Her Daffodil-shaped lacrimarium (small vessels used in ancient times, particularly in Roman and Greek cultures, to contain perfumes and unguents used during funeral ceremonies) can be worn or hung on a wall to hold the house's botanical-scented oils.
Venice Art Biennale 2024: This year’s Biennale, titled “Foreigners Everywhere”, features many country pavilions discussing extractivism linked to colonisation throughout history. This topic reflects ongoing issues in material sourcing, which are not new to the fragrance industry, where unethical ingredient sourcing continues to raise significant concerns. (Visit until 24th November 2024)
The Poetry Pharmacy in London: the world's first Victorian-inspired pharmacy providing walk-in literary prescriptions, unique gifts, and books to soothe every emotional need.
Botany - a Victorian Expedition: Botany is a new strategy board game that immerses players in the role of a Victorian-era flower hunter, embarking on global expeditions.
*While appreciating its beautiful botanical imagery, we must also acknowledge that the game romanticises a historical period with strong colonialist connotations. As Victorian botanists, players collect specimens from around the world to bring back to England, reflecting that mindset. It's important to remain mindful of these factors, recognising the historical context and its implications.
Thank you for exploring Alchemical Herbalism with us. We hope you've enjoyed the journey!
More exciting insights are coming your way in our next edition.
Costanza Sofia
Nunotes’ Founder
Oh god! The newsletter we have always wanted it here!